Everything You Need To Know About False Eyelashes and How to Apply Them
When it comes to makeup, applying false eyelashes ranks pretty high in terms of difficulty (or at the least, intimidation), right up there with winged liner and impeccable contouring. That's why we’re here to demystify all of your questions surrounding the various (and plentiful) types of faux lashes on the market — which, by the way, has flooded everywhere, including drugstore aisles, Instagram, and the most luxurious beauty boutiques.
Once primarily associated with theatrical performers, glamazons, and the red carpet set, thanks to Instagram-fueled trends and a reclaimed power in the individuality of makeup (I’ll rock a false lash on a Tuesday afternoon trip to the grocery store, thanks very much), the false lash has become totally democratized. In fact, the rapid ascent of false lash-effect mascaras like Glossier’s Lash Slick, Maybelline New York’s The Falsies, and (my all-time favorite) D.J.V. Miaray Fiberwig, are proof that the look of endless, fluttery lashes aren't going out of style any time soon.
We've enlisted the pros to break down everything you need to know about finding the perfect false lash for your eye shape and desired effect. So grab your falsies and your lash glue (remember: give it a few seconds to dry until tacky before sticking them on your eyelids) and get ready to become a lash master.
Brittany Theophilus1/7Individuals
Individual lashes are a great option if you want to give a subtle, all-over boost to the fullness and length of your natural lashes, or simply want to add definition in certain areas of the lash line. Individuals are usually available in sets of 30-60 strands of varying lengths, which makes them one of the best options for a customizable look. "With individuals, you have more control and you can become your own lash artist,” makeup artist and Tweezerman brow & lash ambassador Gita Bass tells Allure.
Who it's for: Anyone who’s looking for a natural-looking way to add length and volume in specific areas or looking to fill in any gaps in the natural lash. “They are the most versatile [false lash type] and can create any gorgeous look from a natural, ‘day’ lash to a maximum intensity look,” says Bass. "When applied correctly, individuals can disappear into your own lashes and really keep people guessing.”
How to use it: Carefully apply each individual lash with a pair of tweezers or preferably, specifically designed lash applicators. (More on that later.) And while it may take some getting used to, the key to nailing it: “Practice, practice, practice,” says makeup artist Fiona Stiles. “Also, get yourself a good magnifying mirror.” They can be applied evenly in between your lashes to boost fullness all around, targeted in sparse areas if you're trying to fill those in, or added to the outer ends of your lashes for a wide-eyed effect — customization is key with these.
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Brittany Theophilus2/7Clusters
Also known as "flares" or "accents," clusters work well if you're short on time or need a little more practice applying full strip lashes, according to Bass. “The little band on a cluster makes them easier to pop on the lash line, and they don’t lift on the corners like strips can.” Another great thing about clusters is that they can be strategically applied to create a variety of looks. “I’ll often add a few clusters on the corners to create a cat-eyed effect,” says Bass.
Who it's for: If you’re looking for similar results from a strip, but with the customizability of smaller, more workable pieces, then clusters are definitely for you. Apply them in a row for a full strip-like finish, or pop them just onto the outer corner of your eyes to create a wider, cat-eye effect.
How to use it: Similarly to lash strips, clusters are applied by dispensing a thin amount of lash adhesive and placing each one onto the upper lash line and layering as desired. “Once your lash is on, wiggle mascara at your root to ‘marry’ the false lash and your natural lashes together to give a seamless look,” recommends makeup artist Kelsey Deenihan.
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Brittany Theophilus3/7Strips
When people talk about false lashes, odds are they’re most likely referring to strips, which — as their name suggests — are a horizontal band of faux wisps that are worn across the entirety of your upper lash line.“Strip lashes work well as long as you find a style that suits your eye shape,” Bass recommends. “Rounder eyes look great with a winged or demi lash on the outer corners, while deep-set eyes need a slightly longer lash to be visible. Hooded eyes benefit from a lash that is longer in the middle.”
Who it's for: Full lash strips are a one-step way to instantly add drama and volume to your eyes and are widely available in a variety of price points. Some feature a black band for added definition, while others may feature an “invisible” band for a more subtle effect. “I prefer to use them for a more dramatic look, or if a client has very sparse lashes and needs the help of the lash base,” says Bass.
In terms of materials, synthetic fibers are commonly used in both drugstore and prestige offerings, but the upper echelon of luxury lashes may sometimes be made with natural fibers like mink or silk.
How to use it: Full strips are typically applied with lash adhesive and tweezers or lash applicators (and a very steady hand). If the strip doesn’t quite fit your eye shape, you can always trim them to fit — something most makeup artists will actually recommend to ensure a proper fit and result. “If you’re going to use a strip lash, either cut it into two or three sections or use a really good glue like Darkness to ensure that the ends don’t pop up,” says Stiles. “It takes a little time to get used to it, like anything else, but the more you do it the easier it becomes.”
“Looking down while applying may seem hard since you want to know where you are putting the lash, but it will give you a flatter surface to apply them,” explains Deenihan. “To get the hard-to-reach corners, I use a pair of tweezers to hold the corners of the lash in place, while the glue allows the band to set.”
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Brittany Theophilus4/7Magnetic
Relatively new to the scene, magnetic false lashes are the makeup world’s answer to anyone who’s dealt with the struggle of applying lashes at the precise moment when glue is tacky but not completely set. (And of course, there’s the removal ordeal, which if done improperly, can mean sacrificing a few of your natural lashes in the process.) Formerly a niche category in the world of false lashes, magnetic options are now going fully mainstream with popular mass brands like Kiss and Ardell making versions at price points that won’t break the bank. Magnetic lashes are also becoming available in a wide variety of shapes (i.e. clusters and strips), so they can be a great option no matter what lash look you’re going for.
Who it's for: If you’re looking for a reusable and gentler alternative to traditional falsies, very over using lash glue, or want to add even more volume to existing lash extensions but can't get glue on them.
How to use it: For starters, forget everything you know about applying a traditional false lash. Magnetic lashes work by “sandwiching” your natural lashes in between two interlocking strips of false lashes, that stick together with the help of micromagnets. Begin by gently placing the upper strip on top of your lashes and then “locking” them into place by bringing the bottom strip underneath your lashes and letting the magnets snap them together. To remove them, gently rub the lashes with your fingers in a side-by-side motion (don’t pull or tug) to let the magnets naturally come apart.
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Brittany Theophilus5/7Extensions
“Lash extensions are great for clients who love the look of long thick lashes, but don’t have the time or patience to create them,” Bass explains. “They can look great as long as they are done well and maintained with regular touch-ups.” That’s the thing: While the results are undoubtedly swell, they require a lot of at-home maintenance (plus aforementioned touch-ups) and are a serious investment. A full set of extensions typically begin from $200, but can easily run you closer to $500 depending on the salon and the type of extensions (i.e. mink vs. synthetic) you’re choosing.
On the topic of pricing, it’s important to stress that while it may be tempting to give in to the siren song of $55 extensions, we would highly advise against it. While not all businesses listed on bargain sites will result in conjunctivitis or swelling, a quick Google search for “cheap lash extension horror stories” (look at your own risk) is enough for us to take our business (and eyes) to a clean, reputable establishment that has years of client experience.
Who it's for: If you’re looking for a semi-permanent way to get long, full lashes without the daily routine of applying mascara or falsies. They're great for low-maintenance vacation beauty.
How to use it: While at-home kits like Lashify can give you comparable results, the in-office lash extension process involves a technician individually gluing extensions of varying length and thickness onto the top row of your upper lashes — a procedure that takes roughly an hour or more, depending on how full of a set you're getting. After the application is complete, you cannot get them wet within a day of getting them, and you may need to commit to keeping a spoolie brush handy to detangle them if you sleep on your stomach. Lash extensions usually last for up to two months, but you will likely want to schedule touchups every few weeks to take care of gaps where the artificial lashes have shed.
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Brittany Theophilus6/7Fantasy
All of the above info on all things lashes finally brings us to the fantasy category, the brash peacocks of the false lash world. As the name suggests, there’s exactly nothing subtle about these babies; after all, nothing screams “Hey World, I’m wearing fake eyelashes!” like a veritable plumage of brightly-colored feathers flared out from the outer corners of your eyes. “There is really a time and a place for them,” Deenihan tells Allure. “They are not something you will typically find on the red carpet; some editorial makeup stories might call for a bright, bold lash, but these types of lashes are commonly used for more character makeup.”
Who it's for: If you’re looking to make a dramatic lash statement for an occasion like Halloween or New Year’s, or if it’s a (really) special occasion that calls for very theatrical lashes.
How to use it: Generally speaking, the same rules for applying a lash strip apply for a fantasy lash: Keep them in place with an adhesive and use an applicator for extra-precise results.
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Brittany Theophilus7/7Applicators
Unless you were born with the innate coordination and precision of a heart surgeon, you can probably agree that applying a false lash with just your hands as your tools is a very difficult task. “Using the right tools is key to applying lashes at home,” says Bass, who swears by a long, angled tool like Tweezerman’s Lash Assist to get the job done. “Once you’ve applied the lash, turn the tool around and use the back edge to gently press the lash in place.” However, like false lashes themselves, applicators come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and you may need to shop around to see which one feels most comfortable for you.
Who it's for: If you’re having difficulty applying false lashes by hand, a tool might make your life way easier. That said, even if you’re a total pro at applying them, the right tool will probably shorten the amount of time spent parked in front of your mirror.
How to use it: Many applicators will loosely resemble a pair of slant tweezers in terms of ergonomic design, but others will feature a wider tip with more surface area to grip onto the entire length of a lash strip, letting you position and place it flatly along your lash line.
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