Italy's Cinque Terre: Exquisite scenery and tasty seafood

Manarola, Italy -- A yellow bell tower that warned of pirates in past centuries stands sentinel in Italy's seaside village of Manarola. A bit farther down the hill in a town is a house with a water-wheel, which gives the town its name in the local dialect.

The sunny walk across the hillside above town is spread with olive groves and vineyards of glistening green grapes.

But the refreshment comes where the main street of Via Renato Birolli spills into the town's rocky harbor, offering deep-water swimming in the clear blue water.

Manarola is one of five villages known as Cinque Terre along Italy's northwest coast. While the region's name means "five lands," it may as well translate as "many steps."

Each village has a permanent population measured in hundreds rather than thousands. Each has places to stay, shops to browse and restaurants to enjoy abundant local seafood.

After dwelling in isolation until a century ago, the towns are now linked by hiking trails and a railroad line. A visit offers the opportunity to sample the sandy beach in one town, a ceramic shop in another and the seafood risotto in another – all in one day.

Restaurants tend to display the day's catch from the shimmering Ligurian Sea next to the door with the menus. At the family-run Via Venti, on a side street in Monterosso, giant shrimp sprawl on a bed of ice awaiting the grill. Around the corner, at Al Pozzo, the sea bass are propped up on the ice as if leaping for their own dinner.

The towns, a three- or four-hour train ride from Milan, each have their own character. The northernmost village of Monterosso has the sandy beach. Next is picturesque Vernazza, with round harbor guarding pastel buildings. Corniglia is perched highest above the water. Manarola has deep-water swimming. And the anchor of Riomaggiore feels less touristy than the rest.

Flooding inundated the villages in October 2011, hitting the northern towns worst. A house that was torn apart still sits with its gaping living room facing the path between Monterosso and Vernazza.

Mud filled Laura's bakery along Via Emanuele in Monterosso, as seen in pictures from that time. But the town is back on its feet and her shop with new appliances is back to serving cappuccino and cream-filled donuts at sidewalk tables.

Alas, the two easiest paths along the water – connecting three southernmost towns – are closed this year for maintenance.

But padlocks continue to accumulate at the gates of Via dell'Amore, the lover's lane between Riomaggiore and Manarola, where couples seal their commitment with locks.

For a less strenuous visit, regional trains run frequently between the towns. A two-day pass for the trains and for hiking along the trails, which are technically part of a national park, costs about $30.

Just remember that riding the train to Corniglia leaves 382 steps in 33 zig-zagging flights up the hill from the railway station to the town. A shuttle bus timed to meet the trains will cart passholders up the hill for free.

For hearty travelers, the steepest trails remain open.

One rewarding hike, from Monterosso to Vernazza, heads up and down trails steep enough for steps to be carved into the hills. A picnic table at the summit offers a place to sip water and drink in the spectacular view.

Along the trails, the region's international appeal is evident from Asian hikers snapping pictures, Australians wearing floppy hats and Germans pressing along with alpine walking sticks.

English serves as a common language to share tips about slippery rocks or tasty blackberries ahead.

Another strenuous hike is called the vineyard path from Corniglia to Manarola. Despite the head start of the shuttle bus, the climb out of Corniglia is exhausting and the descent into Manarola leaves rubbery legs.

But the views may be worth the struggle, seeing the next village perched above the waves. Vineyards are tiered along the hillsides. Olives and berries also grow along the path, which seems to meander through the backyards of residents at times.

After a sweaty walk, the reward in Manarola comes beyond the ceramic shops and sidewalk restaurants and gelato stands, with a cool dip in the blue sea.